The Union Inn, Denbury

A traditional English pub with a fresh, modern feel is what Alex Green discovered at this village inn

Restaurant Review

The Union Inn

After hearing the Union Inn in Denbury had recently been taken over with a new menu popular with the locals, I was keen to try it out.

Located opposite the village green, it was a 14th-century blacksmith’s residence prior to becoming a public house and retains much of its original features, including wide open medieval stone fireplaces, low oak-beamed ceilings and bare stone walls. It has been sympathetically updated with blue/grey wooden panels and new furniture.

Danni and Rob Webb appear to have struck the right balance with locals and visitors. The menu features traditional pub grub, while the specials board incorporates popular dishes from around the world. Ingredients are sourced locally where possible, and head chef Tom does a fine of job of cooking them.

For starters, I went for the spicy tomato soup. It was rich, wholesome and well-seasoned with a warm chilli kick. To follow, I chose the salmon fillet from the specials board, with herbed new potatoes, a mixed salad and a deliciously creamy Chardonnay sauce.

Andrew opted for the king prawn and spinach gratin to start. The sweetness of the prawns was well-balanced with the sauce, which he polished off with warm ciabatta bread. He then chose a perfectly cooked 10oz rump steak of West Country beef (rare), which was served with onion rings, mushrooms and a pepper sauce.

My made-to-order dessert of chocolate fondant was well worth the wait. Molten chocolate oozed out of its centre and the refreshing raspberry sorbet was divine. Andrew’s sticky toffee pudding was deliciously moist and sweet – the perfect end to a great night out.

Alex loves: the wine list featuring a fabulously floral Fleurie that was a great choice with her meal

Sample Menu

Starters

  • Individual camembert, port and cranberry sauce, salad garnish
  • Chef’s duck pâté, homemade chutney, toast

Mains

  • Lamb shank, creamy mashed potato, seasonal vegetables, minted gravy

  • Beetroot and quinoa burger, goat’s cheese, salad, spiced tomato relish

Desserts

  • Spiced apple crumble, custard

  • Chocolate and honeycomb profiteroles

Prices

  • Starters from £3.95

  • Mains from £9.95

  • Desserts from £4.95
The Union Inn
The Green
Denbury
Devon
TQ12 6DQ
01803 812595
www.theunioninndenbury.co.uk
Alex Green

Published 26 February 2019

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