Dukes, Sidmouth

Sue Cade enjoys even tastier food here than on her last visit

Restaurant Review

Dukes, Sidmouth

Located a stone’s throw from the sea in Sidmouth, Dukes promises informal dining, exactly how I like it. It’s a spacious dining area in a contemporary style that is very relaxing. My guest Julia and I sat near the window on a sunny evening, watching people pass by or stop for a drink in the (extensive) outside seating area.

We treated ourselves to a tipple, mine a Luscombe Sicilian Lemonade, while Julia pushed the boat out with a large glass of Chardonnay Stablemate, which “slipped down very nicely”.

We noticed the set menu had changed from our last visit. Julia’s starter of a locally-caught mackerel fillet drew many “oohs and aahs”, while my smoked chicken salad was made extra-special with dabs of apricot and mango, and a light curried sauce.

Being a Thursday, it was Seafood Night and we both chose from this menu; oven-baked south coast monkfish in sauce Américaine, and River Exe mussels in white wine, garlic and cream sauce. My monkfish came as a delicately flavoured stew, served with perfectly cooked wild rice. Scrumptious. Meanwhile, Julia devoured her mussels.

I prevaricated between a strawberry & Pimm’s crème brûlée and baked Amaretti peaches – the latter won the day. It was a good choice, particularly the accompanying elderflower and mint sorbet. Julia fancied a Baileys Affogato, and I had to divert her attention with the antics of a seagull outside in order to dive in for a taste. It was pure pleasure.

We were served by Laura who was more than happy to give us all the time we needed to enjoy our meal.

A stroll along the promenade to watch the young and fearless bobbing about in the sea was the perfect end to a perfect dinner.

Sue loves: the local flavour, new menu and fresh fish

Sample Menu

Starters

  • Devon crab thermidor, Gruyère cheese, fresh chive and parsley
  • Goats cheese tempura, carpaccio of heritage tomatoes, basil pesto

Mains

  • Baked pork tenderloin, smoked paprika, Parma ham, sage creamed potatoes, lemon and apple sauce
  • Coconut, avocado and sun-ripened tomato linguine, yellow pepper coulis

Dessert

  • Dark chocolate truffle torte, white chocolate sauce, Devonshire clotted cream
  • Lemon and brioche pudding, cinnamon crème anglaise

Prices

  • Starters from £6
  • Mains from £11.50
  • Desserts from £5.50
Dukes
The Esplanade
Sidmouth
Devon
EX10 8AR
01395 513320
www.dukessidmouth.co.uk
Sue Cade

Published 27 September 2018

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