Restaurant Review

Breakwater Bistro, Brixham

Alex Green lauds the seafood and sea views at this award-winning beachside bistro

Alex Green
21 January 2019

As any seafood lover can confirm, there’s no place better to find the finest catch of the day than at Brixham, home to the highest value landed catch in the country.

If that’s not reason enough to head to this picturesque seaside town then the Breakwater Bistro, recently voted Best Restaurant in the 2018 South Devon Tourism and Hospitality Awards, surely is.

Arriving for an evening meal with family in tow, it felt like a novelty to be beside the sea with the twinkling lights of Torbay on full view. We were shown to the upstairs restaurant, where a panoramic view of the bay stretched out before us.

With floor-to-ceiling glass walls, the transition from beach to bistro is seamless. The interior decor is beach-shack chic, with a range of nautical-inspired trinkets available to buy.

Seafood was the order of the day along with a bottle of the local Sharpham wine, which served to complement the fish beautifully.

Andrew went for the panko-coated calamari to start, generously portioned and served with a chilli dip. I had Brixham scallops and enjoyed their delicious sweetness, cooked simply in garlic butter.

Our appetite was primed for the main course. Andrew’s baked crab thermidor was served with unctuous, garlicky dauphinoise potatoes. Who doesn’t love these classics? I had the Shellfish Trio of ‘crack your own’ crab claws, crevettes and mussels in garlic butter, served with crusty bread. Cracking open the claws, I was rewarded with a succulent piece of Devon crabmeat. As the manager, Tom Mayers, aptly says: “it’s great to smash up your dinner!”

The fitting finale was sharing a plate of desserts, highlighted by a flaming crème brûlée and salted caramel profiteroles. An all-round smashing meal!

Alex loves: the sound of the waves crashing against the breakwater as you arrive – a perfect setting for a fine, seafood feast

Breakwater Bistro
Berry Head Road
Brixham
Devon TQ5 9AF

01803 856738
www.brixham-restaurant.co.uk

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